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- Production Studio
-- Pictures of your Home studio
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| quote: |
| Originally posted by cryophonik Out with Tetra, out with the Virus TI desktop, and out with the SL Remote. Behold my Mopho X4! snip |
DSI should make a Prophet 12 in a 2 or 2.5 octave keyboard like the mopho. Standard width but shorter keys. You only need long keys for piano keyboards. Actually DSI should use something like QuNexus technology so we can have polyphonic aftertouch.
| quote: |
| Originally posted by Mel David DSI should make a Prophet 12 in a 2 or 2.5 octave keyboard like the mopho. |
prove it 
You win the lottery or something paulino?
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| Originally posted by echosystm A 2 octave keyboard on a polyphonic synth would be moronic. |
| quote: |
| Originally posted by PaULiN0 prove it |
ahh i'm just mess in around hhaha
actually now that i think about it... im sure there are others but the virus polar is only 3 octaves
Just busted out a track using this rig
Yeah, baby, just gotz my new Beat Thang!!!
Here's the first tune I done with it:
http://www.cryophonik.com/files/cryo_beat_thang1.mp3
You haven't updated your sig yet.
| quote: |
| Originally posted by Mel David You haven't updated your sig yet. |
My "awesome workstation", it runs like it looks 
| quote: |
| Originally posted by cryophonik Yeah, baby, just gotz my new Beat Thang!!! Here's the first tune I done with it: http://www.cryophonik.com/files/cryo_beat_thang1.mp3 |
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| Originally posted by Sushipunk LOL, amazing. |
| quote: |
| Originally posted by cryophonik What? My mad Photoshop skillz, or the song? |
| quote: |
| Originally posted by cryophonik What? My mad Photoshop skillz, or the song? |
| quote: |
| Originally posted by cryophonik Yeah, baby, just gotz my new Beat Thang!!! Here's the first tune I done with it: http://www.cryophonik.com/files/cryo_beat_thang1.mp3 |
We just moved into a new place and the selling point for me was the detatched garage at the bottom of the garden!
Redoing the floor with DPM, insulation and a layer of screed. Then insulating the walls and running some armored cable from the house . Garage doors are getting bricked up for security(getting help from the family with this)
A bit of this is going to be for storage, but should still have about 5.5m by 3.3m for my studio!! By my understanding those are pretty good dimensions for a mixing room (when properly treated of course)!!
Only downer is theft insurance is hard to come by as its a separate building. So going to install a burger alarm and prob bars on the windows, door too. ALso theres a rail line nearby which is a bit of a bummer for recording - luckily i only record voxs (well ive done it twice so far) so not the end of the world. Luckily the line isnt too busy either
Edit. If anyone has any tips please do share
Very cool Chris
Make sure that once you dry line and insulate the room you have sufficient ventilation to combat condensation. Building regs are different for a detached garage like that, and you might find that once you've used the room all day with power on it will cool down a lot at night, and without the correct ventilation you will find water inside the room in the morning.
It might have air bricks already, but it's worth checking.
It's a good idea to get the building inspector over to advise you.
Nice Chris!
Geoff is right, especially in the UK where summer consists of two weeks of sunny but sideways rain 
What are you going to do with the walls? In my opinion this will be the single biggest decision you make.
Are you going to plaster them? Or are you going to put up stud against then use drywall (or plasterboard as it's known there)? Or are you going to do a rough skim, then use breaker bars and greenglue-drywall sandwiches? Or are you going the whole hog and going RC clip suspended stud and quietrock?
I'd be happy to help on this, as I've had a lot of experience working with all these materials over the last 10 years.
If you want to get really serious, you could also spring the floors but I depends how far you want to go.
Personally, if the only actual recording you're going to do is vox, then build the walls to keep exterior sound out (cheapest would be skim of plaster then attach greenglue-drywall sandwiches, best would be RC suspended stud arrays but it's labor intensive and therefore costly unless you have family that are builders). Then build a Vocal booth. Just make sure you plan getting a small AC unit for it as that is always forgotten, although I believe when working with young maidens, the extreme heat can be a total bonus as long sessions result in nudity to keep cool. The missus might get pissed though.
Thanks chaps!
thats a good idea Geoff, i might install an extractor fan or something. Im not keen to get any building inspectors involved tbh !
Cheers Raan. My plan is:
for the floor. Simple DPM followed by 50 mm celotex installation then about 60mm of screed. I think the springs idea is super cool but its a bit too much for me (Noisia did that in their studio i remember)!!
With the walls, the plan is to either do a second, cavity wall prob with thermo bricks or put up some wooden batons on the wall, then layer with some thermal plasterboard (celotex). Both times would finish with plaster
i hadnt thought about soundproofing tbh, just thought that either of these ideas would be ok sound wise.
Both these sound interesting. Quietrock sounds cool where can i purchase it? Is it insulating as well as soundproofing? Whats a RC suspended stud array?
greenglue sounds cool. Just spread it on? would need loads!!!
Many thanks
No problem - Happy to Help
The floating floor thing is probably not needed. The main reason I was suggesting it is that you have train tracks nearby and I know from having lived in London, the LF vibration can carry over very long distances and for dynamic recordings, the only way to get around this is by floating the floor.
Rann Trivia Fact #258. David Grey's Album - White Ladder, was made for under £5k and completely recorded With Lestyn Polson in David's Camden High Street Flat (my old hood). If you listen carefully, at very quiet points on some tracks you can hear bus/train noises rumbling in the background.
Unless this is a massive problem (which I doubt as you're only recording Vox and as said before, you can solve 90% of problems associated with that by building a simple vocal booth etc) then the floating floor is total overkill, and if not done right, can actually cause more problems with resonance etc.
TBH, just put good underlay and nice carpet down. Most people thing wood floors in studios and it looks better but Carpet is a no brainer for studios. Anything nice and thick.
However, when it comes to the walls, get it right. Quiertrock is available in the UK although it's expensive. I've worked with both real quietrock, and ghetto quietrock (two layers of normal drywall with green glue between) and tbh, the results were virtually negligible difference. Even though they won't tell you this, Greenglue takes several months to really work but it's not like it's going to be a temp installation for you.
I will saying just going with straight up QR is easier, where as GQR may work out slightly cheaper for materials but it is more labor and time consuming, so you have to find our where your sweet spot is in terms of value. If labour and time is real cheap, then go GQR, if not, the QR.
Which ever design (and I haven't even got in to installation mathods yet such as RC clips etc) you HAVE to make sure the walls don't touch the floor or cieling or each other. You'll need a 1/4" gap between each surface, and you'll need people who can work accurately as normal acceptable builder's tolerances are as high as 3/4' off in any direction and still classed as OK. Just make sure you stipulate thhis clearly to the drywall/plasterer's before and make then sign it. Then, before any wet plasterwork is done (i.e. after the drywall has been affixed), just go around and double check it all has a gap of 1/4" between each surface.
You're then going to use acoustic sealant in those gap, and let is set before they do any wet work. It's actually a lot easier than it sounds. Bear in mind though QR is quite tough stuff - you can't just use a plaster knife or box cutter like you can with normal drywall. You'll need a reciprocating saw or a circular bed saw to cut/
Now on to hanging the drywall.
The RC clip method is best shown in this video:
It looks more complicated than it actually is, and the video also explains the gaps between each surface. The clips and resiliant channel are fairly cheap, so as mentioned, the money with this method is in the labor. You can certainly do this all yourself, but I would get a drywaller/plasterer in to manage and finish the project.
As for the type of drywall, if you're going with the RC method, you probably don't need to use QR, as the decoupling effect combined with the resonance air gap trap will be enough for your needs.
Now if you decide not to go the RC route, then you could just get away with using green glue to sandwich two layers of 5/8ths normal drywall together, then attaching that to the breeze blocks with green glue and anchor screws.
One caviat doing it this way; you cannot have an airgap with this method so you won't get as much low resonance absorbtion benefit as the RC method. The reason you can't have a airgap is the triple leaf effect. Anytime you have 3 (or a multiple of three) layers, it can have the opposite effect in that it actually creates a resonance chamber as the layers reverberate with each other.
The two layers of drywall are necessary though, so that sound hits the first one, gets dissipated by the green glue decoupling to the next sheet - essentially the sound energy gets transfered in to heat due to it being transferred in to kinetic energy as the compression and rarefaction turns in to physical movement along the surface of the drywall. You then want to decouple this sandwich from the wall as much as possible by using green glue and screws dipped in acoustic sealant.
Again, the big thing with this one is to make there are no places of airgaps along the breeze block wall, and you need a little bit of a smotth surface for the glue to bind to so you'd need to do a quick plaster skim on this.
RC clips will offer the best result but it's dependent on more labor so it might not be cost effective, and GG sandwich will work out cheaper.
You can do the same for the ceiling (either method) or do a drop acoustic ceiling and plenty of strategically placed some sound batt in there.
Let me know if you need any more help!
thanks Raan for such an in depth reply, ill have a think about this - although part of me wonders if its not overkill - seeing as i sont record vocalists very often. Apart from the train that wizzes by every 20 mins or so there's no noise here at all as ive moved out to surrey!
the building a vocal booth idea does sound a very good idea thougn. night have to ask you about that one!
Chris
tbh, if you're not that bothered or budget is an issue, I'd just skim the walls, then use a layer of greenglue, and acoustic sealant dipped screws to mount a layer of 5/8ths drywall. The green glue will give you a bit of damping and decoupling (as long as you make sure there's a 1/4" gap to any surface).
Then if you need it, build a little vox-box (or you can buy pretty decent prefabbed ones that come flatpacked).
I would go with carpet though - wood floor/concrete/hard surfaces really can give a nasty splash when it's not been perfect acoustic standard installation. Laminate behaves like shit with mid/high frequency and concrete will give you a nasty slap echo effect with peak transient sounds.
Get a nice thick carpet and only worry about room treatment once you've got all your kit perfectly in place.
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